Pages

Pages

Sunday, August 28, 2022

Making an Altoids® Tin Spice Kit ©

 

 

Altoids®, photograph by the Author.


Let’s face it, that dehydrated food that you’re eating is so bland as to be almost tasteless...it needs some spice, some ZING!  And what you need is an easy to make and carry Altoids® tin spice kit.

 

What you will need...

 

What you will need to make easy to make and carry Altoids® tin spice kit, photograph by the Author.


You are going to need an empty Altoids® tin and a pack of five “Mini Glass Containers”, by Crafters Square.  These small glass containers come with a cork, and each will hold about .33 fluid ounces, 10 ml, or one teaspoon of spice, which is between two to six grams depending on the spice you put in it, , and four of them will fit snugly into an Altoids® tin. 

 

The rest of what you will need to make to make easy to make and carry Altoids® tin spice kit, photograph by the Author.


Besides the Altoids® tin and the craft bottles, you will also need a popsicle stick, eleven inches, or 28 cm, of ribbon, a hot glue gun and about 12 grains of rice.

 

Step One...

 

Four of the “Mini Glass Containers” will fit snugly into the Altoids® tin, photograph by the Author.


Because the four glass containers fit so snugly into the Altoids® tin, it is hard to take them out.  So, with a hot glue gun, I glued an eleven inch, or 28 cm, long piece of ribbon to the inside of the tin, so that it would lie flat against the bottom.  After putting a blob of hot glue on the inside side right edge of the tin, and lining up the ribbon, I used the popsicle stick to press it flat.

 

The ribbon hot glued to the side of the tin, so that it lies flat along the bottom, photograph by the Author.


Step Two...

 

Photograph by the Author.


To fill the bottles, I rolled a 3” x 5”, or 1.62 cm x 12.67 cm index card into a funnel.  Then I filled the bottles with spices and put two or three grains of rice into each bottle before I pushed the cork in.  The rice is to absorb any moisture that might get into the bottle.

 

Photograph by the Author.


What will you put in it...

 

So, what spices will you carry?” I wonder?  Me personally, I am going to bring some salt, pepper, chili powder and powdered garlic.  Your choices are up to you. 

 

The completed Altoids® tin spice kit, photograph by the Author.


The final kit weighs only three ounces or about 85 grams and now your dehydrated food won’t be so bland!  Enjoy!

 

Don’t forget to come back next week and read “Try Your Hand at Measuring ©”, where we will talk about how to use your hands to measure time, height and distance.

 


I hope that you continue to enjoy The Woodsman’s Journal Online and look for me on YouTube at BandanaMan Productions for other related videos, HERE.  Don’t forget to follow me on both The Woodsman’s Journal Online, HERE, and subscribe to BandanaMan Productions on YouTube.  If you have questions, as always, feel free to leave a comment on either site.  I announce new articles on Facebook at Eric Reynolds, on Instagram at bandanamanaproductions, and on VK at Eric Reynolds, so watch for me.

 

That is all for now, and as always, until next time, Happy Trails!

 

 

 

Sunday, August 21, 2022

Could You Survive...Night Vision ©

 

 


During the late 70s and early 80s, the Spokane Daily Chronicle, printed a column in the Outdoors section, called “Could You Survive”, which was written by U.S. Air Force survival instructors.

 

No one sees as well at night, as they do during the day, but did you ever stop to think about why that was, or how you preserve your night vision when you are out in the wilderness?  Well, that is exactly what the authors of the “Could You Survive” article asked back on Tuesday, November 3, 1981, in the Spokane Daily Chronicle.

 

An excerpt from “Could You Survive” published in the Spokane Daily Chronicle, November 3, 1981.


So, what would you do?  Would you pick answer A, B ,C or D? 

 

Hmmm, that’s a good question, isn’t it?  But first before we choose an answer, let’s talk about the anatomy of your eyes and about day vision versus night vision”.

 

The Mark-1 Eyeball

 

The anatomy of the eye, an excerpt from “Seeing at Night”, by Robert A. Alkov, PhD, from Fathom, Summer 1970, page 58.


Your eyes are like very sophisticated biological cameras, and certain parts of your eye resemble the parts of an analog camera, such as the lens which in a camera focuses light on to film and in a human eye focuses light onto the retina.  And your iris is like the diaphragm of the camera and opens or closes to regulate the amount of light entering your eye.

 

An excerpt from Scouting and Patrolling, MCWP 3-11.3, by the Marine Corp, Figure 5-1, showing how human eyes are like a simple camera.


Your retina, just like the film in an old-time camera, is a light sensitive layer made up of both cone cells and rod cells, which transmit a visual image to you brain when stimulated by light.  The center of the retina is a called the fovea centralis and contains only cone cells.  This part of retina is about 2 degrees wide, or about the width of your thumb, and at night is what is responsible for causing the “night blind spot” in the center of our visual field.  The rest of the retina is composed of both cone and rod cells, with rod cells becoming more common, until at the edges of the retina, there are only rod cells.  The “optic disk” is the spot in your eye where the optic nerves and blood vessels enter and leave your eye, and this is the spot that is responsible for causing the “day blind spot”.

 

An excerpt from “Oh Say, Can You See?”, by Major Nicholas E. Barreca, MD; from the U. S. Army Aviation Digest, June 1971, page 16.


Each cone cell contains a light and color sensitive pigment called iodopsin, which is not sensitive to any light below the level of full moonlight, and each single cone cell is connected by a single nerve to your brain.  Cone cells are what allow us to see in daylight, in color and in detail.  Rod cells contain a light sensitive pigment called rhodopsin, which is also called “visual purple”, and only distinguish shades of gray, black and white.  Many rod cells are connected in a series to a single nerve, and this is what allows low light to send a visual impulse to your brain. 

 

An excerpt from Rotary Wing Flight, FM 1-51, by U.S. Department of the Army, page 6-1.


Day Vision...Night Vision

 

There are three types of vision, phototropic, which allows you to see during the day, this type of vision only uses the cone cells of your retina; mesopic, that allows you to see during dusk and dawn, and which uses both the cone and rod cells of your retina; and scotopic, which is what allows you to see in the dark, and that only uses the rod cells of your retina.

 

Night, or dark adaptation, is the process by which your eyes adjust to seeing in low levels of light.  It involves both physiological and chemical changes in your eyes and it takes your rod cells about 30 to 45 minutes to produce enough rhodopsin,  or “visual purple” to increase rod cell sensitivity to light and allow your eyes to see in low light conditions.  Imagine entering a dark room, at first it is difficult to see anything.  Quickly however, your pupils dilate, or enlarge, to let in as much light as possible, and after about 5 to 10 minutes your cone cells become adjusted to the dim light and your eyes will be about 100 times more sensitive to light, than they were when you first entered the darkened room.  When fully adapted to the darkness of the room, your visual sensitivity to light is about 10,000 times higher than it was in a brightly lit area.  This process happens independently in both eyes and can be quickly lost if you are exposed to a bright, or even moderately bright light, which is why you should close one eye before being exposed to bright lights to prevent the total loss of your night vision.

 

Seeing at night...

 

An excerpt from the Flight Training Handbook.  Revised 1980, by the U. S. Flight Standards Service, page 194.


Scotopic vision or, night vision, is the type of vision we experience at night during conditions of partial moonlight or starlight.  At night your visual acuity drops from 20/20 to 20/400 and you will only be able to see large objects.  Also, you will be colorblind, because only your cone cells can detect color and at night only your rod cells are used.  Also, don’t forget that at night, you will experience a two-degree wide “night blind spot” in the center of your visual field, and you will have to rely on your peripheral vision to see, which means looking away from what you want to see!

 

An example of off-center viewing, from Long-Range Surveillance Unit Operations, FM 3-55.93, Figure J-2, page J-2.


During the day looking straight at something and using your central vision works, but not at night.  At night you must use your peripheral vision, because of the “night blind spot”,  This is called “off-center viewing”, and instead of looking directly at an object, you must look instead out of the corner of your eye, above, below, or to either side of what you want to see, just like in Figure J-2, above.  It varies from individual to individual, but experts recommend looking from 6o to 15o degrees away from what you want to see.  With your arm is fully extended out in front of you, this is between the width of three fingers (about 5o) to one hand-span (or 15o), which is the distance from the tip of your little finger to the tip of your index finger.

 

From “Measuring The Sky”, by Brian Ventrudo, April 19, 2009, HERE.  When fulling extending your arm, your fingers can measure degrees of distance.


At night, when using an off-center viewing, move your eyes in a series of short, systematic hops over and around what you are looking at.  This prevents “bleaching”, which is the neutralization of the rhodopsin in the rod cells.  When you use your rod cells, the visual purple in the individual rod cells “bleaches” or blacks out after 4 to 10 seconds and the object you are looking at will seem to fade and then disappear.  As the visual purple in the rod cells in one area bleaches out, you must shift your eyes slightly to use fresh rod cells.

 

Examples of scanning techniques for off-center viewing at night, an excerpt from Long-Range Surveillance Unit Operations, FM 3-55.93, Figure J-1, page J-2.


And the correct answer is...

 

An excerpt from “Could You Survive” published in the Spokane Daily Chronicle, November 3, 1981.


So, what did you choose, did you choose D?  I hope so, but if not, now you know!

 

The complete “Could You Survive” article, published in the Spokane Daily Chronicle, November 3, 1981, HERE.


Don’t forget to come back next week and read “Making an Altoids® Tin Spice Container ©”, where we will talk about spicing up that bland dehydrated food with an easy to make and carry Altoids® tin spice container.

 


I hope that you continue to enjoy The Woodsman’s Journal Online and look for me on YouTube at BandanaMan Productions for other related videos, HERE.  Don’t forget to follow me on both The Woodsman’s Journal Online, HERE, and subscribe to BandanaMan Productions on YouTube.  If you have questions, as always, feel free to leave a comment on either site.  I announce new articles on Facebook at Eric Reynolds, on Instagram at bandanamanaproductions, and on VK at Eric Reynolds, so watch for me.

 

That is all for now, and as always, until next time, Happy Trails!

 

Sources

 

 

Alkov, Robert A., PhD; “Seeing at Night”, Fathom, Volume 2, Summer 1970, pages 58-61, https://books.google.com/books?id=AN-8DgE5FWkC&pg=PP69&dq=night+vision+cigarette&hl=en&newbks=1&newbks_redir=0&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwir0L39zsb5AhVeEGIAHdl9DZs4FBDoAXoECAQQAg#v=onepage&q=night%20vision%20cigarette&f=false, accessed August 15, 2022

 

Barreca, Major Nicholas E., MD; “Oh Say, Can You See?”, U. S. Army Aviation Digest, June 1971, pages 15 to 19, https://books.google.com/books?id=7x3z3yl2MvUC&pg=RA6-PA15&dq=%E2%80%9COh+Say,+Can+You+See?%E2%80%9D+%22figure+1%22&hl=en&newbks=1&newbks_redir=0&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwjqxobl0dX5AhVTFlkFHbGbDzAQ6AF6BAgFEAI#v=onepage&q=%E2%80%9COh%20Say%2C%20Can%20You%20See%3F%E2%80%9D%20%22figure%201%22&f=false, accessed August 15, 2022

 

Marine Corp; Scouting and Patrolling, MCWP 3-11.3, [Department of the Navy, Headquarters United State Marine Corp, Washing ton DC, April 17, 2000], page 5-1, https://www.marines.mil/Portals/1/Publications/MCWP%203-11.3%20%20Scouting%20and%20Patrolling.pdf, accessed August 15, 2022,

 

Strauss, Lt. Col. Samuel, “Night Sight”, Flying Safety, Volume 46, April 1990, page 18, https://books.google.com/books?id=0IT9KouSWK8C&pg=RA3-PA19&dq=night+vision+cigarette&hl=en&newbks=1&newbks_redir=0&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwjBqpr1x8b5AhXWGVkFHT7nCXIQ6AF6BAgDEAI#v=onepage&q=night%20vision%20cigarette&f=false, accessed August 15, 2022

 

U.S. Air Force Survival School, “Could You Survive”, Spokane Daily Chronicle, November 3, 1981, https://books.google.com/books?id=cwNMAAAAIBAJ&pg=PA10&dq=%22spokane+daily+chronicle%22+%22could+you+survive%22&article_id=4356,364873&hl=en&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwjBnJTmzvTwAhXjGVkFHeaLBNoQ6AEwBnoECAMQAg#v=onepage&q=%22spokane%20daily%20chronicle%22%20%22could%20you%20survive%22&f=false, accessed August 9, 2022

 

U. S. Department of the Army, Long-Range Surveillance Unit Operations, FM 3-55.93, [Headquarters Department of the Army, Washington DC, June 2009], page J-2, https://www.globalsecurity.org/military/library/policy/army/fm/3-55-93/fm3-55-93.pdf, accessed August 15, 2022

 

U. S. Department of the Army, Rotary Wing Flight, FM 1-51, [Headquarters Department of the Army, Washington DC, April 16, 1979], page 6-1, https://books.google.com/books?id=KyAW48ANjZcC&pg=SA6-PA7&dq=night+vision+cigarette&hl=en&newbks=1&newbks_redir=0&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwjBqpr1x8b5AhXWGVkFHT7nCXIQ6AF6BAgJEAI#v=onepage&q=night%20vision%20cigarette&f=false, accessed August 15, 2022

 

U. S. Flight Standards Service, Flight Training Handbook.  Revised 1980, [U.S. Dept. of Transportation, F.A.A., 1980 ], page 194, https://books.google.com/books?id=ioRTAAAAMAAJ&pg=PR11&dq=%E2%80%9Cflight+training+handbook%E2%80%9D+%224-1%22&hl=en&newbks=1&newbks_redir=0&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwiBp_3P1dX5AhVIGVkFHaz3BssQ6AF6BAgEEAI#v=onepage&q=%E2%80%9Cflight%20training%20handbook%E2%80%9D%20%224-1%22&f=false, accessed August 15, 2022

 

Ventrudo, Brian; “Measuring The Sky”, April 19, 2009, https://oneminuteastronomer.com/860/measuring-sky/, accessed November 27, 2018

 

Sunday, August 14, 2022

What Could It Be? ©

 

 

What could it be?”, that is what they asked me.   Photograph by the Author.


What could it be?”,   That is what my wife and granddaughter asked me, about two weeks ago.  Frankly, I had no clue other than it was a big bug!  So, I took some photographs and did some research and found out the answer.

 

a Flower Longhorn Beetle...

 

It is a Flower Longhorn Beetle, a stenelytrana emarginata, a member of the cerambyciae family, and part of the sub-family of lepturinae.  The long antennae and its bright orange-red elytra, or wing case, make them easy to identify.

 

The range of the flower longhorn beetle, from “Flower Longhorn Beetle (Stenelytrana emarginata)”, by a Staff Writer at www.InsectIdentification.org, HERE.


But, first off, it is not an invasive species, the flower longhorn beetle is native to North America and is considered to be a plant pollinator, since they feed on pollen and nectar.  They are particularly fond of members of the carrot, parsley and celery family and are often found on Queen Anne’s Lace, or in Latin, daucus carota.  These beetles are often found on flowers, which is where this one was found, but are often not seen, although they can be lured to an area by putting out fruits, or other juicy sweet foods, or special fermenting baits.

 

Also, the other good news is they don’t bite, sting, attack furniture or houses, or any other dried wood.

 

Queen Anne's Lace, daucus carota, growing in an old brownfield, along the Buffalo, NY waterfront, photograph by the Author.


The immature stage of the flower longhorn beetle is a wood boring larva called a “roundheaded borer”.  Longhorn beetle lay their eggs on the green bark of dying, freshly cut or other newly killed trees, particularly elm and beech trees.  They can only infest recently killed trees, and not dried lumber.  The brown headed, white to yellowish colored larva, emerge from their eggs, and spends one to three years burrowing into the wood of their birthplace, leaving a pencil sized tunnel filled with sawdust behind them, before emerging as adult beetles from a hole in the wood.  And these are large beetles, the one from our flower garden measured 2 inches long, or 5 cm, from the tip of the back leg to the tip of his antennae!

 

Photograph by the Author.


So, know we all know what it is and the next time you see one you can say “Hello, flower longhorn beetle!  Welcome to my flower garden”.

 

Don’t forget to come back next week and read “Could You Survive...Night Vision ©”, where we will talk about night vision.

 


I hope that you continue to enjoy The Woodsman’s Journal Online and look for me on YouTube at BandanaMan Productions for other related videos, HERE.  Don’t forget to follow me on both The Woodsman’s Journal Online, HERE, and subscribe to BandanaMan Productions on YouTube.  If you have questions, as always, feel free to leave a comment on either site.  I announce new articles on Facebook at Eric Reynolds, on Instagram at bandanamanaproductions, and on VK at Eric Reynolds, so watch for me.

 

That is all for now, and as always, until next time, Happy Trails!

 

 

Sources

 

 

Boggs, Joe; “Flower Longhorn Beetles”, July 21, 2016, [© 2016, The Ohio State University], https://bygl.osu.edu/node/445#:~:text=Flower%20longhorn%20beetles%20are%20considered,of%20having%20very%20long%20antennae, accessed August 7, 2022

 

ISU Extension; “Roundheaded Borers and Longhorned Beetles”, [© 2022 ISU Extension and Outreach], https://hortnews.extension.iastate.edu/roundheaded-borers-and-longhorned-beetles#:~:text=These%20beetles%20may%20also%20wander,in%20furniture)%20nor%20dried%20firewood, accessed August 7, 2022

 

Staff Writer; “Flower Longhorn Beetle (Stenelytrana emarginata)”, 01/03/2022, [© 2022 www.InsectIdentification.org], https://www.insectidentification.org/insect-description.php?identification=Flower-Longhorn-Beetle-Steneltytrana-emarginata, accessed August 7, 2022

 

 

Sunday, August 7, 2022

The Marine Corp Survival Kit, Circa 1974©

 

 

An excerpt from U.S. Marine Corp, FMFM 8-1, Special Operations, Figure 14, page 92, discussing a personal survival kit.


Just like in the old song, time changes everything, but when it comes to survival kits, that just isn’t true.  This is because the basic needs of someone who is “misplaced” in the wilderness are the same today, as they were in 1800, 1920 or 1974!

 

The “Rule of Threes”, these are the priorities that a survival kit needs to meet.  Graphic by the Author.


The “Rule of Threes” is a way of prioritizing basic human survival needs, and it is also a good way of deciding what to put into your survival kit.  When you look at what the Marine Corp suggested putting into a survival kit, you can see some obvious differences between it and a civilian survival kit.

 

Civilian vs. Military, What’s the Difference?

 


Modern civilian survival kits are designed to keep body and soul together for 72 hours, or three days, since within 24 hours, 97% of “misplaced” people are found by searchers.1  However, it isn’t quite the same in a wartime military survival situation, because in that case you DON’T want to be found by the searchers, who don’t have your best interests at heart.  During wartime, to survive you either have to self-rescue and find your own way back to friendly territory, or you must signal a friendly aircraft, all without alerting hostile searchers to your location.  In either case, it will probably take you longer than 72 hours to reach safety, and your survival kit needs to reflect that.  That is why one third of the items in the U.S. Marine Corp survival kit , circa 1974, can be used to obtain food, which is the last priority on the “Rule of Threes”!

 

An excerpt from U.S. Marine Corp, FMFM 8-1, Special Operations, page 91, discussing the need individual Marines have for a personal survival kit.


So, What’s in It?

 

An excerpt from U.S. Marine Corp, FMFM 8-1, Special Operations, Figure 14, page 92, annotated by the Author.


We know what the U.S. Marine Corp survival experts suggested that you put into your survival kit, back in 1974, because they provided us with a list and a picture.  But what did they suggest you carry your supplies in, and what items are different from those found in a modern civilian survival kit? 

 

The container, a No. 10 Can?

 

A No. 10 can used as a bailing bucket, photograph by the Author.


First off, from the picture in the center of Figure 14, in FMFM 8-1, Special Operations, and the very limited text which accompanied it, I am not certain what type of container the Marine Corp experts recommended to put your survival supplies in.  I am guessing that what is shown in Figure 14, is a No. 10 can, which is a standardized metal can that is 7 inches high by 6-3/16 inches wide, or 17.8 cm high by 15.7 cm wide, and weighs when empty about 9 ounces, or 255 grams.  These cans are designed to hold 104 to 117 fluid ounces or about 3 to 3.5 liters.  Now one of the good things about packing your survival supplies in a No. 10 can is, it can be used to disinfect your drinking water by boiling, especially if you attach a bale to it so you can hang it over the fire.  And disinfecting your drinking water becomes a priority if you are out in the wilderness for longer than 72 hours, or three days.

 

Number 5 -- Nails

 

8d nails, photograph by the Author.


The authors of FMFM 8-1, Special Operations, suggested that nails be included in a military survival kit, since they can be used as spear points or harpoons to gather food. 

 

The authors wrote that the nails should be cut in half, which I took to mean that the heads of the nails could be cut off.  However, they didn’t mention what size of nails should be included.  I suggest carrying 8d nails, which are 2-½ inches long, or 6.35 cm.  Six 8d nails, weigh just one ounce ,or 28 grams, and they can used for other things besides food gathering, such as shelter building, or making tools, like a manak.

 

An excerpt from Polar Manual, Fourth Edition, Captain Earland E. Hedblom, MC, USN, page 104 to 105.


Number 8 -- Harpoon or Shark Hook

 

An “Anatomy of a Fishhook”, by Mike Cline, June 2007, from Wikimedia, HERE.


Hooks and harpoons are food gathering tools and everyone knows that, but since I don’t live anywhere near an ocean, I didn’t know what a shark hook is, and in case you don’t either, here is what I found out.

 

Hook sizes, from “Fishing Hook Sizes - Why is a Size 8 Different from an 8/0?”, by Saltwater-fishing.com, HERE.


A shark hook is a LARGE hook, often larger than your hand, and for sharks in the 3 to 5 feet, or 0.9 to 1.5 meter, range experts recommend a 5/0 hook, pronounced five aught, while for sharks larger than 5 feet, or greater than 1.5 meters, they recommend a hook between 12/0 and 14/0.

 

After 1998, circular hooks become the most often used hook to catch toothy fish, because the circular hook will pull the line out of the fish’s mouth and keep it from biting through the line.  In 1974 however, J-hooks were the most frequently used hooks, and this is the type of hook that the authors of FMFM 8-1, Special Operations, were most likely referring to.

 

The authors of FMFM 8-1, Special Operations, suggested that a shark hook should be put into your survival kit because it could be used to make a gaff.  A gaff is a steel hook attached to a pole and the distance from the shank of the hook to the point, denotes the gaff’s size, so the 9/0 hook in the picture above, if it was attached to a pole would make a 1-¼ inch, or a 3 cm, gaff.  Either a circular hook or a J-hook can be used to construct a gaff to snag fish, burrowing animals, tree branches so you can pick fruit, etc.

 

Number 25 -- Hacksaw Blade

 

A hacksaw survival saw, with a paracord handle, photograph by the Author.


The Marine Corp survival experts who wrote FMFM 8-1, Special Operations, suggested that a hacksaw blade should be included in your survival kit.  A hacksaw blade weighs ½ ounce or about 14 grams, is 10-1/8 inches, or 25.7 cm, long,  Unfortunately, a full-length hacksaw blade will not fit into a No. 10 can and you will have to cut it down to fit.  If you cut off the last 1-3/8 inches, or 3.5 cm, of your hacksaw blade, like in the picture below, you are left with a saw blade that is 8-¾ inches, or 22.2 cm, long that fits diagonally from the bottom side of a No. 10 can, to the opposite top side.

 

Photograph and graphic by the Author.


Additionally, I would recommend wrapping the end furthest from the cut off end, with a couple of wraps of duct tape and then three layers of paracord to make a handle.  For more on this watch for a future article, “Making a Survival Hacksaw Knife/Saw©”.

 

A hacksaw could also be considered a food gathering tool, or rather, a tool that lets you build food gathering tools, since it will cut through metal, wood, bone, or antler!  You can use it to fashion metal, bone or shell spearheads, hooks, and harpoons.

 

Number 12 -- Cartridges

 

And lastly the authors of FMFM 8-1, Special Operations, suggested on item number twelve, that you include cartridges in your survival kit.  They don’t say it, but it is obvious that the cartridges should be for your primary firearm, the one you will be carrying if you are “misplaced  This is an obvious difference between a civilian survival kit, which is designed for people who don’t regularly carry a firearm and therefore don’t include ammunition, and military survival kits, which are intended for people who do. 

 

Also, as the authors suggested the cartridge “powder is good fire starter”.  For more on using the gun powder in cartridges as a fire starter read “Test Your Survival Knowledge, Part Two ©”, HERE.

 

Miscellaneous lengths and details...

 

The Marine Corp survival experts who wrote FMFM 8-1, Special Operations, unfortunately left out some important details from their listing of supplies which should be carried in a military, or for that matter, in a civilian survival kit.

 

Two feet, or 61 cm, of 24 gauge snare wire, photograph by the Author.


Item number three, “Snare wire; trip wire (for small game)”, the authors didn’t mention how much and what gauge wire you should put into your survival kit.  Other survival experts state that the best wire to catch rabbits or squirrels is a copper, brass, galvanized or stainless-steel wire between 20 gauge and 24 gauge.  Remember the smaller the animal the larger the gauge, since the larger the gauge number is, the thinner the wire is, and vice versa.  Another thing to remember is to attach some cordage to the end of the snare, this saves on wire if the anchor point for the snare is farther away and the cord will prevent the animal from twisting and breaking the wire.  To make one snare to catch a squirrel or a rabbit, you will need a piece of wire about two foot long, or 61 cm, which means if you have ten feet of wire you can set up five snares. 

 

Item number nine, “Fish line and hooks...”, the authors didn’t mention how much fishing line and tackle such as hooks and sinkers, you should put into your survival kit.  Larry Dean Olsen, on page 130 of  Outdoor Survival Skills, stated that you need 10 feet, or 3 meters, of line per fishing line that you set up.  Other experts have suggested that 50 feet, or 15.25 meters, of braided fishing line should be carried in your survival kit, as well as hooks and split-shot, this is enough that you will be able to set up five fishing lines. 

 

Item number twenty-three, “Rubber tube (for straw or slingshot)”, but just how much rubber tube should you carry, and what type?  The authors of FMFM 8-1, Special Operations, failed to mention that mention that.  Rubber latex surgical tubing with a 3/8 inch outer diameter and a ¼ inch inner diameter, (9.5 mm O.D. and a 6.4 mm I.D.) makes both a great drinking straw and excellent slingshot bands.  To make bands for a survival slingshot you will need about 18 inches, or 45.7 cm of surgical tubing2 and if you want to still have some tubing leftover for a straw, you will need at least two feet, 61 cm, or better yet three feet, or 91 cm, of surgical tubing.

 

The leather pocket from a slingshot, photograph by  the Author.


If you intend to make a survival slingshot, beside rubber surgical tubing, include a leather pocket in your survival kit.  For more information on how to build a survival slingshot, look for a future article called “How to Make a Survival Slingshot ©”.

 

The original excerpt from U.S. Marine Corp, FMFM 8-1, Special Operations, Figure 14, page 92, discussing what to put into a personal survival kit.


It is instructive to look at a survival kit that is intended to help you survive longer than 72 hours, and the items that the Marine Corp survival experts suggested, like the nails and the shark hook are valuable when included in a survival kit that is intended to help you survive for the long haul.

 

Don’t forget to come back next week and read “What Could It Be? ©”, where we will talk about unknown, big summer beetles and what they are!

 


I hope that you continue to enjoy The Woodsman’s Journal Online and look for me on YouTube at BandanaMan Productions for other related videos, HERE.  Don’t forget to follow me on both The Woodsman’s Journal Online, HERE, and subscribe to BandanaMan Productions on YouTube.  If you have questions, as always, feel free to leave a comment on either site.  I announce new articles on Facebook at Eric Reynolds, on Instagram at bandanamanaproductions, and on VK at Eric Reynolds, so watch for me.

 

That is all for now, and as always, until next time, Happy Trails!

 

 

Notes

 

1 In fact, Devon O’Neill, who wrote in Outside magazine, quoted Paul Anderson, a 42-year veteran of the National Park Service who spent 11 years as the superintendent of Denali National Park, as saying “Our stats show 85 percent of all lost people are found within the first 12 hours, and 97 percent are found within the first 24 hours”.  A quote from ““They Can’t Cure Dead ©”, the entire article can be found HERE.

 

2 I measured the bands on my Daisy B52 Wrist-rocket, and they are each 8-¾ inches, or just over 22 cm, long, so you will need a minimum of 17-½ inches, or 44.5 cm, of tubing – plan on using 18 inches, or 45.7 cm of surgical tubing to accommodate and wastage. 

 

 

Sources

 

 

Anglers Gear, “The Circle Hooks Comprehensive Guide”, https://anglersgear.net/the-circle-hooks-comprehensive-guide/, accessed July 24, 2022

 

Hedblom, Captain Earland E. MC, USN; Polar Manual, Fourth Edition, [National Naval Medical Center, Bethesda, MA, 1965], p. 37, https://ia800305.us.archive.org/33/items/PolarManual4thEd1965/Polar%20Manual%204th%20ed%20%281965%29.pdf, accessed 12/07/2019

 

Olsen, Larry Dean; Outdoor Survival Skills, [Pocket Books, New York, 1976], page 130

 

Saltwater-fishing.com; “Fishing Hook Sizes - Why is a Size 8 Different from an 8/0?”, https://www.go-saltwater-fishing.com/fishing-hook-sizes.html, accessed July 24, 2022

 

U.S. Marine Corp, FMFM 8-1, Special Operations, [Department of the Navy Headquarters United States Marine Corps, Washington D.C., August 13, 1974], page 130, https://books.google.com/books?id=j1U4jWVaoRsC&pg=PA187&dq=finding+the+north+star&hl=en&newbks=1&newbks_redir=0&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwjoi9bjrYb5AhXHEmIAHS73B-A4PBDoAXoECAIQAg#v=onepage&q=finding%20the%20north%20star&f=false, accessed July 19, 2022

 

Wikimedia; “Anatomy of a Fishhook”, by Mike Cline, June 2007, https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Anatomyofafishhook.jpg, accessed August 1, 2022