Leek Tart, which is also known as Pâte Aux Poireaux

 

Leek Tart, cooked by the Author

I thought since it was Thanksgiving Day and because I had just posted a cooking article called “18^th Century Hearth Cooking, Versus Field Cooking, or How I Spent My Weekend”, in which I wrote about making a Leek Tart, I would post the recipe.  This “receipt”, as they would have spelled recipe, during the 18^th century, was also known as ‘Pâte Aux Poireaux’, and it is delicious.  I would like to thank all of the re-enactors/instructors at ‘Old Fort Niagara’ for their patience and time and, especially, Kate for giving me the recipes.  I hope that you enjoy cooking and eating this very tasty piece of history.

 

Cooking the roux, by the Author

 

Leek Tart before the cheese, by the Author

 

Leek Tart before baking, by the Author

Leek Tart or Pâte Aux Poireaux

6 Tbsp. butter                                                                                     2 Tbsp. light cream

4-5 leeks, finely chopped                                                                   9 inch pie shell (see below *)

2 Tbsp. flour                                                                                       ½ cup water

1 cup mild Cheddar cheese, grated                                                    1 egg

Chop the leeks; be sure to use only the white and light green part of the vegetable.  In a large heavy pan, melt 4 Tbsp. butter over medium heat and cook leeks stirring often for about 10 minutes.  Add the water, cover, and simmer gently for about 20 to 25 minutes, until very tender.

In a saucepan, melt the remaining 2 Tbsp. butter over medium heat, stir in the flour and cook until bubbly.  (You are making a roux.)  Blend in the leek mixture and bring to a boil.  Season it with salt and pepper.  Remove from the heat and cool slightly.  Grate the cheese if not already done.

In a bowl beat the egg and cream together and stir into the leek mixture.  Pour into an unbaked pie shell.  Sprinkle with cheese.  Bake it in a 400^oF oven for 25-30 minutes or until the cheese begins to brown.

* A puff paste or a raised yeast crust is probably more correct for the early period, but a regular pie or tart shell may also be used, especially after 1759.  This receipt is from the Île d’Orléans and is related to the Flamiche aux poireaux, a savory leek tart from the northern regions of France and Flanders.  The green onion is a scallion or an échalote, but not a shallot, according to Quebec’s Office de la langue française.  The shallot is a small onion with a red skin.

Onions were a favorite Quebec food and were traditionally grown in such quantities in Beauport, an area north of Quebec City, that farmers used to be nicknamed les oignons de Beauport,  In the Île d’Orléans, leeks are still a favorite and the farmers in the island are still called les poireaux because of their fondness for them.

A Cold Crust or Pie Dough

A cold Crust:

TO three pounds of Flour, rub in a Pound and half of Butter; break in two Eggs, and make it up with cold Water.

- From Hannah Glasse, The art of Cookery, Made Plain and Easy, 1747, 1796 & 1805

Modern Half Receipt Adaption:

Half of the above receipt makes a double crust 12 inch pie.

5 cups unbleached flour                                                                     1 medium egg

¾ lb. or 3 sticks of cold butter                                                           Up to ¼ cup of cold water

Cut the cold butter into small pieces in the mixing bowl.  Add all but 2 spoonful of flour; mix thoroughly by rubbing the mixture against the side of the bowl with a spoon.  Break in the egg and mix thoroughly into the flour and butter mixture.  Add cold water, a spoonful at a time, mixing well after each addition.  When dough holds together, form it into a ball.

Place dough on a lightly floured wooden board.  Pound the dough with the rolling pin until it stays together.  This step is REALLY important!  Divide dough in half.  Roll half of the dough into a circle about 15 inches in diameter.  Fold in half and lift carefully into the pie plate and gently unfold.  Press crust down so that it is touching the pie plate everywhere.  Bake or fill according to the directions for tart or pie.