Sunday, February 6, 2022

7 Habits of Highly Effective Winter Campers ©

 

 

Ice camping on Cuba Lake, New York, circa 1978 or 1979.  Photograph from the Gerry L. Reynolds collection


For more on how to sleep warm in the winter, watch “How to Sleep Warm in the Winter Part One”, HERE, “How to Sleep Warm in the Winter Part Two”, HERE, and read “Some Additional Thoughts on How to Sleep Warm in the Winter©”, HERE – Authors Note.

 

Recently, I read an article titled “Eight essentials for staying warm while cold-weather camping” and I agreed with seven of the eight points that the author made1.  So, I thought I would talk about each of these topics briefly, although each could be expanded into a full discussion all its own. 

 

1) Layering...Dressed for success!

 

Dress in layers, so that you can easily add or remove clothing, as you become warmer or colder.  You must avoid sweat soaking your clothes.  An excerpt from Naval Arctic Operations Manual: Part 1 General Information, pages 159.


The first and most important habit of highly successful winter campers is “layering” your clothes.  Clothes are your first line of defense for temperature regulation and shelter against the wind, the wet, and the cold.  When out in the wilderness, in any season, but in the winter particularly, always dress in layers for the worst weather you might meet and plan accordingly for the expected daytime and night-time temperatures and weather.  Maintaining your body temperature in the normal range of 98.6oF (37oC) is your priority!  When dressing in layers, remember the “three W’s”, the wicking or base layer, the warm or middle layer, and the windproof/waterproof or outer layer.

 

For snow walking, wear a hiking rain jacket with a hood and rain pants as your windproof/waterproof layer.  According to Michael Rohani, who wrote “The Fifteen Essentials for Winter Backpacking”, these work the best1. 

 

Don’t forget to layer your hand coverings just like you layer the rest of your body, waterproof shell mittens should be worn over top of a thin pair of knit gloves, and if it is very cold, add a pair of insulating mittens over your gloves, and under your outer layer.  Also, remember that your gloves or mittens will get wet, so always pack extras. 

 




Shoes and clothes must fit loosely when it is cold, don’t lace your shoes or boots tightly, otherwise it might cut-off the circulation in your feet, excerpts from the Naval Arctic Operations Manual: Part 1 General Information, page 166-167


Baggy is in!  Dress in loose layers and avoid tight clothing because tight clothing restricts your circulation, particularly in your extremities, and because loose clothing helps trap warmed air-pockets in your clothes next to your body.

 

And don’t forget your head, face, and eyes.  A knit cap is necessary, because heat loss from your bare head can be up to 33% at 60oF (15oC), up to 50% at 40oF (4oC) and up to 75% at 5oF (-15oC).  If it is very windy and cold, wear a balaclava or ski mask to protect your face and snow goggles to protect your eyes.  And if it is sunny, ALWAYS wear dark wraparound sunglasses or glacier glasses to protect your eyes from snow blindness, as the snow and ice will reflect the UV rays.

 

Some layering tips.  Your head is your thermostat, if you are feeling warm take off your hat, if cold put it on.  If you keep chest and abdomen warm, your arms and legs will be warm, as warmed blood can flow to them.  If you took off a warm layer while moving or working, put it back on as soon as you stop.  And put your windproof/waterproof outer layer back on whenever you remove or put on a warm layer.

 

The Author’s wraparound sunglasses, which block 99.9% of harmful UV rays, with retaining strap, photograph by the Author.


For more on layering and what to wear in the winter, read “Accidental Lessons … Boots Freeze!©”, HERE; “Comfortably Cold, What’s That?©”, HERE; “The Top Ten Wilderness Survival Skills...Number One ©”, HERE; and “Could You Survive? Hiking in the Desert, Sun blindness or Dehydration? ©”, HERE.

 

2) Fuel the furnace, stay hydrated, and go to bed warm...

 

The second habit of highly effective winter campers is eating enough calories to keep the heat going, staying hydrated and going to bed warm.  During the winter you will need more calories to stay warm and travel through the wilderness and more water than you might expect to stay hydrated.  And to sleep warm when it is cold you will need fuel to keep your internal furnace burning all night long, you must be hydrated, and you need to go to bed warm. 

 

You need more calories to stay warm and travel in the winter, than you normally would, about 3,600 to 6,000 per day depending on your activity level, body size and the weather.  This works out to about two pounds or about one kilogram of food per person per day.  Carbohydrates such as starches and sugars should be about 50-60% of your caloric intake, remember they are metabolized quickly and easily and don’t supply long lasting energy.  Proteins, which should be about 15 to 20% of your total daily calories, burn more slowly than carbohydrates because they are more complex molecules.  Fats, such as margarine, butter, nuts, cheese, etc., take the longest amount of time to metabolize and should be about 25 to 35% of the calories that you consume per day while you adventure in the winter wilderness.

 

Some winter food tips.  Eat often and eat plenty.  If you are feeling cold, eat a snack.  Eat your dinner just before bed and include some dried cheese with it, as the protein and fats will supply fuel for your furnace late into the night2.  Carry both ready-to-eat food, such as foil pouches of food, candy bars, nuts, crackers, pita bread, jerky, etc., and food that needs to be prepared, like fresh food or dehydrated meals, because you aren’t always able to heat up food when you are hungry and need to fuel up your furnace.

 

Ready to eat, foil wrapped pouches of food, photograph by the Author.


During the winter you need to drink more water than you might think, because the winter air is dry.  Your body needs the water to digest your food, particularly those slow burning fats and proteins, and to move heat around your body.  So, drink plenty of water, you will need about two to four quarts/liters every day to replace the water that is lost to respiration, perspiration, evaporation, and excretion.  Often during the winter, since it is cold, people don’t drink enough water, so drink often, even if you aren’t thirsty, and don’t let your water bottle go empty.


 

An excerpt from FM 90-3 Desert Operations, p. 1-22

Some winter water bottle tips.  Use sturdy wide mouthed water bottles, like Nalgene® bottles, for water storage, not water bladders because they will freeze and are difficult to thaw.  Use wide mouth water bottles, not narrow mouthed ones because wide mouthed bottles are easier to fill, and narrow mouthed bottles can jam up with ice.  Carry your water bottle upside down in your pack, this way if it freezes the ice is at the bottom and the lid won’t freeze on.  You can bury your water bottle in a snowbank, this will insulate it from the cold, but remember to bury it upside down, and don’t forget where it is!

 

Nalgene® bottles, photograph by the Author.


For more on the effects of dehydration and how to avoid it read, “What is Dehydration and How Do You Avoid It? ©”, HERE.

 

3) Have a cooking system and a reliable firestarter

 

The third habit of highly effective winter campers is carrying a cooking system and a reliable firestarter.  Fires as a heating and cooking system, is a system of last resort in the winter, because in high snow areas, firewood is often underneath several feet of snow and is hard to find.  Also, in deep snow conditions it is dangerous to approach snow covered trees, because of “tree wells3.  It is safer to use a stove, and alcohol or white gas stoves are more reliable in the winter than are butane canister stoves. 

 

The Author’s Coleman Dual Fuel stove, photograph by the Author.


To save on cooking time and fuel when using a stove, use a windscreen or a stove that is designed to be wind resistant, this keeps the keep the heat focused on the pot and always use a lid to hold the heat inside the pot.

 

Here are some winter stove tips.  Start each meal or brew-up with a full tank of gas, because white gas and alcohol can be explosive.  Be careful when refilling your stove, because gasoline and alcohol can become super cold in the winter and fuel spilled on your hands can cause frost bite.  Since wet or sweaty hands can freeze to a metal fuel bottle, wear gloves, or wrap your metal liquid fuel bottles with duct tape, the duct tape will help insulate you from the cold metal and it is a good way to store duct tape. 

 

You should plan on melting snow and ice for your drinking water, and then boiling it to disinfect it.  If you do find a source of running water, don’t use a water filter, the cartridges will just freeze and be unusable and it will be damaged by freezing solid.  If you are melting snow for water, plan on using a quarter of a quart or liter of white gas per person, per day, just for making water4.  And be careful when melting snow for water since you can burn the pot, first you must “prime” the pot with some liquid water, before you put it on the stove to melt. 

 

A pot of snow waiting to be turned into drinking water, photograph by the Author.


For more on turning snow and ice into water read “Melting Snow and Ice ©”, HERE, and watch the video “Melting Snow and Ice”, HERE.  Also, read “Water Disinfection: When is boiled, boiled enough…? ©”, HERE.

 

Having a reliable way to start a fire or light a stove is necessary, since both hydration and food cooking are necessary.  According to Michael Rohani, in “The Fifteen Essentials for Winter Backpacking”5, the most reliable firestarter is a solid (not clear) sided BIC® Lighter.  I have used BIC® Lighters for years with good success and never had a problem.  I usually have three with me at any time, one BIC® Mini in my survival kit, one full-sized BIC® in an inside pocket (since they are fueled by butane, it is important to keep them warm, so that they light easily) and a spare full-sized one in my fire-starting kit.

 

A full-sized BIC® Lighter.  I like to keep 24 inches (60 cm) of duct tape wound around my lighter.  That way it is always with me when I need to repair something.  Some people wrap duct tape around their water bottle, for the very same reason.  Also, a couple of inches (about 5 cm) of duct tape when crumpled into a ball and lit on fire will burn for a minute or two and help your tinder catch fire on those rainy, drippy days.  Photograph by the Author.


4) Use a pee-bottle...

 

The fourth habit of highly effective winter campers is peeing when your bladder is full.  Wow!  Do we really need to talk about this?  As a matter of fact, it is important, and here is why if you have to pee, you shouldn’t hold it.  Your body’s furnace will burn a lot of valuable calories just to keep the waste liquid in your bladder warm, fuel that you will need to keep your body warm later in the night.  So, get up and go pee, or use a spare Nalgene bottle as pee-bottle if you don’t want to leave the tent.  Just don’t get confused and drink out of the wrong bottle in the middle of the night!

 

5) Have a reliable winter shelter

 

The fifth habit of highly of highly effective winter campers taking a good tent with you whenever you enter the wilderness in the winter, because you never know when the weather conditions will change and you will need shelter, fast! 

 

A four-season, free-standing tent is ideal, but three-season tents will also work.  In deep snow conditions during the winter, normal sized tent stake won’t work, so use “snow stakes”, which are extra-long stakes that are designed to work in snow and bring extra utility cord to attach the snow stakes to the tent’s corner loops, because are not long enough to bury the stakes.

 

Winter tenting tips.  If there are other people in your tent, sleep close together to share body heat, but beware of having too many people in a tent, because it can lead to icing from all the moisture from in their breath.  Keep the vents open so that the moisture from your breath can escape the tent.  Use a larger tent in the winter than you might in the summer, in the winter you will have more gear and might need the room.  Also stomp the snow flat under the spot where your tent will be, otherwise it will compress below you while you sleep, leaving you sunk in the middle.

 

6) Have a winter rated sleeping system

 

The Author’s winter sleep system, a full-sized and ¾ sized closed-cell foam pad, my NeoAir® All Season™ SV and my HQ ISSUE Military Style Sleep System, 3 Piece sleeping bag set.  Photograph by the Author.


The sixth habit of highly effective winter campers is bringing a sleeping system made up of ground pads and a sleeping bag.  For winter camping, the best practice is to use both a closed-cell foam pad and an inflatable air mattress between you and the cold ground, no matter what you will need to have a minimum 4 R-value between the ground and your sleeping bag, or you will be cold!6

 

In the upper left picture above, I am showing both a ¾-sized closed-cell foam pad, which I have used for years, and a full-sized foam pad, both of which have an R-value of 1.4.  During winter camping, if it is cold, I will use them both, with the ¾-sized pad under my head and torso.  The inflatable air mattress in the upper right picture above is a NeoAir® All Season™ SV, which has 2.5” of loft and an R-value of 4.9.  By combining the three sleeping pads together, I will have a total R-value of 7.7 between the ground and me.

 

The sleeping bag set shown above in the bottom picture is a HQ ISSUE Military Style Sleep System, 3 Piece sleeping bag set, which is two nested sleeping bags, inside of a bivvy-bag.  When all three parts of the sleeping bag are used together, they are rated for minus 4o Fahrenheit to minus 22o Fahrenheit (-15o to -30o Celsius). 

 

Some other tips for sleeping warm in the winter.  Make sure that you are warm before you get into your sleeping bag.  Do some jumping jacks or pushups, just enough to warm you up without making you sweat.  If you are cold when you go to bed, you will be cold all night long.  Shake up your sleeping bag, before you go to bed.  If your sleeping bag has spent the day compressed into its stuff sack, the insulation will need to be fluffed and redistributed, so that there are not cold spots.  Since your sleeping bag depends on you to warm it up and then keep it up to temperature, use hand warmers or, fill your Nalgene bottle with boiling water and put it into a large sock, and use these to help get your sleeping bag up to temperature.  If there is room in your sleeping bag, put your next day’s clothes into your bag with you.  You don’t want to have big pockets of empty space around you, since it is just space that you will have to warm up.  Pull your backpack up over the foot of your sleeping bag.  This will help insulate your feet.  Also, don’t sleep with your mouth inside of your sleeping bag, the moisture in your breath will wet your sleeping bag and make you cold.

 

A Nalgene® bottle shoved into an old wool sock.  To make a hot water bottle, fill the Nalgene with hot water and then put the sock on it.  Photograph by the Author.


Also, put your boots, things that can stop working when they are cold, like batteries, cell phones and lighters, or anything else that can freeze into your sleeping bag stuff sack and push it to the bottom of your sleeping bag.

 

7) Beware of winter travel hazards...

 

The seventh and final habit of highly effective winter campers is knowing the risks and dangers around them in the winter wilderness and learning how to avoid them.  There are a great many dangers in the winter wilderness, the cold, the wet, tree wells, avalanches, falling through the ice, etc., maybe that is why it is so much fun!  Always learn about the dangers in the area that you are planning on being in and how to avoid or manage them.

 

Oh, and one more thing...

 

The Author’s possible kit, photograph by the Author.


You should always carry the supplies and the tools to repair any critical gear.  In my “possible” kit7, I keep the things to repair my glasses, sew my clothes and even repair shoes! 

Also, as Michael Rohan, wrote in “The Fifteen Essentials for Winter Backpacking”, you should always carry the tools and spare parts to repair your stove, materials to repair your tent, your air mattress, a couple of extra tent stakes, etc.  You should carry these winter, spring, summer, and fall, never leave home without them. 

 

For more on this read “Field Repairs, or What I Learned on My Canoe Trek ©, HERE, and “So, What’s in Your Possible Kit!? ©”, HERE.

 

And a last winter tip for staying warm and dry.  In the winter, and often during the spring and fall, I carry a ¾ sized closed-cell foam pad as a utility pad, it makes a great seat and keeps me dry and insulates me from the cold, wet ground, it can be used as a wind screen for my stove, as a kneeling pad, etc.

 

The Author’s ¾ sized closed-cell foam pad, being used as a winter seat in a snowbank.  Photograph by the Author.


For more on all of these topics I recommend that your read “The Fifteen Essentials for Winter Backpacking”, by Michael Rohani, HERE, and “What Pro Mountain Climbers Eat & Drink”, by Felix, HERE.

 

Don’t forget to come back next week and read “Clue!  The Woodland Edition ©”, where we will ask who killed and ate Professor Squirrel, in the woods, by the creek!

 


I hope that you continue to enjoy The Woodsman’s Journal Online and look for me on YouTube at BandanaMan Productions for other related videos, HERE.  Don’t forget to follow me on both The Woodsman’s Journal Online, HERE, and subscribe to BandanaMan Productions on YouTube.  If you have questions, as always, feel free to leave a comment on either site.  I announce new articles on Facebook at Eric Reynolds, on Instagram at bandanamanaproductions, and on VK at Eric Reynolds, so watch for me.

 

That is all for now, and as always, until next time, Happy Trails!

 

 

Notes

 

1 The author wrote “Wet feet?  Grab a bag – a bread bag, that is.  The long plastic can stretch over your foot and serve as a liner between your sock and your boot”.  Now all of us 50-somethings will remember putting on bread bags over your socks before sliding your feet into your boots, and we all remember how our feet still got wet!  Yes, the bread bag will stop outside water from leaking through your boots and wetting your socks, provided there are no holes in it.  But your feet sweat, and the sweat will condense on the inside of the bread bag getting your socks and feet wet. 

 

2 One source that I consulted suggested taking a candy bar to bed with you in case you needed a quick energy boost to rev up the old internal furnace.  This is a great idea, and there have been several occasions when my furnace was dead, I was cold, and I wished I had a candy bar.  This will work in the dead of winter, however one thing to keep in mind is, if it is warm enough for the local bears, raccoons, chipmunks to be out and about, then the smell of your midnight snack might attract some unwelcome and unwanted nighttime visitors.

 

3 A “tree well”, which is also known as a “spruce trap”, is the space around the trunk of a tree that has been sheltered from snowfall by the tree’s branches, this creates an open space or area of loose snow around the trunk which is dangerous to hikers, snowshoers, skiers, snowboarders, and snowmobilers who fall into it.  Tree wells up to 20 feet (6 meters) deep have been found and if someone falls into such a well, it can be too deep for them to climb up and out through the loose snow before they are buried.  Often people who fall into tree wells, fall head-first, which can leave them injured or unconscious.  Victims often suffocate in the loose snow around the tree, just as if they were buried by an avalanche.  Beware, similar “wells” can also be found near large rocks and alongside streams.

 

4 From “10 Essentials for Winter Camping”, by Outdoor Research.

 

5 From “The Fifteen Essentials for Winter Backpacking”, by Michael Rohani, this is an excellent beginner’s guide to modifying the standard ten essentials for winter backpacking, it can be found HERE.

 

6 Ibid.

 

7 To see what the Author keeps in his possible kit read, “So, What’s in Your Possible Kit!? ©”, HERE.

 

Sources

 

Allen, Tom; “8 Ways to Stay Warm When Winter Camping”, January 21, 2016, [© 2021 ADVENTURE JOURNAL LLC], https://www.adventure-journal.com/2016/01/8-ways-to-stay-warm-when-winter-camping/, accessed February 3, 2022

 

Department of the Navy, Naval Arctic Operations Manual: Part 1 General Information, [Department of the Navy, 1949, Revised in 1950], p. 157-175,

https://ia600301.us.archive.org/27/items/navalarcticopera00unit/navalarcticopera00unit.pdf, accessed August 28, 2018

 

Felix; “What Pro Mountain Climbers Eat & Drink”, https://mountainhomies.com/what-professional-mountain-climbers-eat-and-drink/, accessed February 4, 2022

 

FM 90-3 Desert Operations, [Headquarters, Department of the Army, US Marine Corps, Washington DC, 1993]

 

Outdoor Research; “10 Essentials for Winter Camping”, November 24, 2013, https://www.outdoorresearch.com/blog/10-essentials-for-winter-camping, accessed February 1, 2022

 

Rohani, Michael; “The Fifteen Essentials for Winter Backpacking”, November 27, 2020, [© 2022 Winter Backpacking], https://winterbackpacking.com/the-fifteen-essentials-for-winter-backpacking/, accessed January 23, 2022

 

Sunday, January 30, 2022

The Top Ten Wilderness Survival Skills...Number Nine©

 

 


This is the ninth in a series of eleven articles on the top ten wilderness survival skills, things you should know before you go into the wilderness.  To read the previous article go HERE – Author’s Note

 

The Number Nine, Top Ten Wilderness Survival Skill: Rope, Knots and How to Tie Them

 

The number nine, top ten wilderness survival skill on my list is, knowing how to tie knots.

 

If you don’t have any rope or string and you can’t tie knots in a wilderness survival situation, you are going to have a hard time building a shelter, hanging up a bear-bag, or even putting up a clothesline.  

 

Do you have any...rope?

 

Shelter supplies that I keep in the back pocket of my survival vest or survival PFD, 1) paracord, 18 feet (5.5 meters); 2) a knit hat, clothes are portable shelter; and 3) two heavy duty contractor grade trash bags, all of which weigh 12 ounces (340 grams).  For more on the survival supplies I carry read “A Survival Kit, Your Ace in the Hole ©”, HERE.  Photograph by the Author.


Rope or string of any type is difficult to find or make for yourself in the wilderness and that is why you should always carry some.  Personally, I always wear a BanadanaMan Emergency Bracelet, which contains 174 inches (442 cm) of string on my wrist when I am out in the wilderness, and I always keep 18 feet of paracord in the back pocket of my survival vest or survival PFD.  Both will make building an emergency shelter much, much easier.

 

But first, some words about rope...

 

An excerpt from Survival, FM 3-05.70 (FM 21-76), page G-3.


Also, before we start talking about tying knots, we need to talk about things like loops, bights, the running-end of a rope.

 

A bight is a simple bend of rope, which does not cross itself, while a loop is formed by crossing the running end over or under the standing end to form a ring or circle in the rope.  The running end of the rope is the free end of the rope, this is the part of the rope you are using to tie the knot.  The standing end of the rope is the rest of the rope beyond the running end and the working end is the part of the rope that is attached to the thing that is being rigged or hauled.  A pig tail is the part of the running end of the rope that is left over after tying a knot and it shouldn’t be more than 4 inches (10 cm) long, to conserve rope and prevent interference.  A turn in a rope is a loop around something like a tree or a branch, with the running end continuing in the opposite direction to the standing end, while a round turn continues to circle and exits in the same direction as the standing end1.

 

Knots, stress points and rope failure...

 

The Camper’s Knot Tying Card Game, by Marco Products


While we are talking about knots, did you know that a knot in a rope will put stress on a rope and can cause it to break?

 

Well, it can!  When you tie a knot in a rope it immediately loses between 25% to 60% of its original strength, since the knot causes a stress point where the rope fibers on the outside of the of the knot are stretched more and the strands on the inside of the knot are stretched less and might even be compressed.  The combination of these stresses can cause a rope to fail and break at the knot.

 

Ten Essential Knots and how to tie them...

 

An excerpt from Survival, FM 3-05.70 (FM 21-76), page G-3.


Everyone knows how to tie an overhand knot, it is an important knot that is often used as a finishing knot, but can you tie a sheet bend, a taut-line, or an alpine butterfly knot?

 

People always tell me that they just can’t tie knots, but what the problem really is though, is a lack of practice.  If you want to be good at knots, make up your mind to learn the ten essential knots, and then practice, practice, practice!

 

The six basic knots...

 

There are six basic knots that are considered must know wilderness knots, the square knot, the sheet bend, the taut-line hitch, two half hitches, the lark’s head, and the bowline.

 

An excerpt from Knots and How to Tie Them, by the Boy Scouts of America, page 10.


The square knot or reef knot is one of the most easily remembered of knots, and when it is used as a binding knot to tie a parcel together or to knot together a neckerchief or cravat, it can’t be beat.  However, when it is used as a bending knot to tie together two different sizes of ropes or to tie together a rope that is stiffer or more slippery than the other one, it will come apart.  So, beware!

 

An excerpt from Knots and How to Tie Them, by the Boy Scouts of America, page 11.


The sheet bend is a true bending knot and can be used to tie together two ropes of different sizes or stiffnesses, and in form, according to The Ashley Book of Knots, it is the same as the weaver’s knot, and is also known as the simple bend, the bend, the ordinary or common bend, or, to distinguish it from the double sheet bend, the single bend.

 

An excerpt from Knots and How to Tie Them, by the Boy Scouts of America, page 16.


Taut-line hitches are a knot that I use whenever I put up tents, tarps, or clotheslines, it is one of my go-to knots!

 

A good use of taut-line hitches, a tarp set up along the shore of Rock Lake, Algonquin Provincial Park, August 2019.  Photograph by the Author.

 

 

An excerpt from Knots and How to Tie Them, by the Boy Scouts of America, page 18.


The bowline is also called the bowling or bolin knot2 and is identical in form to the sheet-bend, but instead of joining two different ropes, it joins the free end of the rope to itself, making a loop.

 

An excerpt from Knots and How to Tie Them, by the Boy Scouts of America, page 19.


Imagine you are up to your waist in the water or in a bog and someone throws you a rope.  You grab the rope, and tie a bowline around your waist, because you know the knot won’t slip and you can be pulled back to solid ground!   To watch a video on how to tie a bowline around your waist, one-handed, go HERE.

 

An excerpt from Knots and How to Tie Them, by the Boy Scouts of America, page 13.

 

Two half hitches are my other favorite knot, I frequently use it to tie a canoe’s painter to a dock post if I am using a civilized landing.  In fact, as mentioned in The Ashley Book of Knots, during the era of sailing ships it was frequently used to tie a ship to a wharf, and as sailors used to say, “Two half hitches will never slip”, by Admiral Luce, and “Two half hitches saved a Queen's Ship”, by Anonymous3.

 

The lark’s head knot, from Knotting and Splicing Ropes and Cordage, by Paul N. Hasluck, page 47.


The lark’s head is also known as the cow hitch, the lanyard hitch, the dead-eye hitch, the stake hitch, or the ring hitch; and when it is tied in a bight or a loop of a continuous rope circle it is called a strap or bale sling hitch4.  This is another of my favorite knots and I use it to hang things by their lanyard or when I am putting up a tarp and I want to make a “magic grommet5, to secure the edges of a tarp to a ridgeline.

 

How to use a lark’s head to make a “magic grommet”, photograph by the Author.


The four advanced knots...

 

However, there are four other knots that are also considered must know, advanced, wilderness knots: the clove hitch, the double-sheet bend, the timber hitch, and the alpine butterfly.

 

An excerpt from Knots and How to Tie Them, by the Boy Scouts of America, page 14.


According to The Ashley Book of Knots, “There is no such thing as a good general utility knot, although ashore the CLOVE HITCH comes very near to filling the office of a general utility hitch”.  The clove hitch is easily remembered and can be quickly tied.

 

An excerpt from Knots and How to Tie Them, by the Boy Scouts of America, page 11.


The double sheet bend is also known as the double weaver’s knot and just like the sheet bend is used to secure two ropes or strings.  The double sheet bend is not any stronger than the sheet bend, but it is more secure.

 

An excerpt from Knots and How to Tie Them, by the Boy Scouts of America, page 14.


The timber hitch is also called the countryman’s or lumberman’s knot and is an old knot.  According to The Ashley Book of Knots, it was mentioned in the 1625 Manuscript on Rigging, in in Denis Diderot’s 1762, Encyclopedia, and in David Steel’s 1794, Elements and Practice of Rigging and Seamanship. 

 

The turns around the rope should always be “dogged”, wrapped, or turned, with the lay or twist of the rope.  Three turns around the rope are usually enough6.

 

An excerpt from Knots and How to Tie Them, by the Boy Scouts of America, page 20.


The alpine butterfly knot is also called the butterfly loop, the lineman's loop, or the butterfly knot and used to form a fixed loop in the middle of a rope.  It can be used to make loops for handholds or footholds and is used by rock climbers to make loops in a rope for a carabiner.  It can also be used to isolate a worn section of rope

 

One Essential Lashing...

 

An excerpt from Knots and How to Tie Them, by the Boy Scouts of America, page 30.


Everyone that journeys through the wilderness should learn how to tie a tripod lashing, because with this lashing you can make a lean-to or a teepee shelter, a tripod to hang a pot over the fire on, or many other handy things.

 

Don’t forget to come back next week and read “Ten Essentials of Winter Camping ©”, where we will talk about how to camp in the winter wilderness and stay warm and safe.

 


I hope that you continue to enjoy The Woodsman’s Journal Online and look for me on YouTube at BandanaMan Productions for other related videos, HERE.  Don’t forget to follow me on both The Woodsman’s Journal Online, HERE, and subscribe to BandanaMan Productions on YouTube.  If you have questions, as always, feel free to leave a comment on either site.  I announce new articles on Facebook at Eric Reynolds, on Instagram at bandanamanaproductions, and on VK at Eric Reynolds, so watch for me.

 

That is all for now, and as always, until next time, Happy Trails!

 

 

Notes

 

1 Other rope and knot terms are as follows:

 

• Dressing the knot.  The orientation of all knot parts so that they are properly aligned, straightened, or bundled.  Neglecting this can result in an additional 50 percent reduction in knot strength. This term is sometimes used for setting the knot which involves tightening all parts of the knot, so they bind on one another and make the knot operational.  A loosely tied knot can easily deform under strain and change, becoming a slipknot or worse, untying.

 

• Fraps.  A means of tightening the lashings by looping the rope perpendicularly around the wraps that hold the spars or sticks together.

 

• Lashings.  A means of using wraps and fraps to tie two or three spars or sticks together to form solid corners or to construct tripods.  Lashings begin and end with clove hitches. 

 

• Lay.  The lay of the rope is the same as the twist of the rope.

 

• Whipping.  Any method of preventing the end of a rope from untwisting or becoming unwound.  It is done by wrapping the end tightly with a small cord, tape, or other means. It should be done on both sides of an anticipated cut in a rope, before cutting the rope in two.  This prevents the rope from immediately untwisting.

 

• Wraps.  Simple wraps of rope around two poles or sticks (square lashing) or three poles or sticks (tripod lashing).  Wraps begin and end with clove hitches and get tighter with fraps. All together, they form a lashing.

 

From Survival, FM 3-05.70 (FM 21-76), by the Headquarters, Department of the Army, page G-1 to G-2

 

2 The Ashley Book of Knots, by Clifford W. Ashley, page 186.

 

3 Ibid., page 303.

 

4 Ibid., page 11, 290 and 305.

 

5 I don’t know where I first heard this called a “magic grommet”, probably from another Birchbark Expeditions guide, but the name stuck with me.

 

6 The Ashley Book of Knots, by Clifford W. Ashley, page 290 and 599.

 

Sources

 

Ashley, Clifford W.; The Ashley Book of Knots, [Geoffrey Budworth, Kent, England, 1993], https://www.liendoanaulac.org/space/references/training/Ashley_Book_Knots.pdf, accessed January 25, 2022

 

Boy Scouts of America, Knots and How to Tie Them, [2002]

 

Hasluck, Paul N.; Knotting and Splicing Ropes and Cordage, [David McKay, Publisher, Philadelphia, PA, 1912], page 44 to 46, https://books.googleusercontent.com/books/content?req=AKW5QadbkrmBx1Gbt4sXfsubEY1Yuq59o5ydbt5SVplV3e8TM4myCFqis5bVfvEV0s-OvwU5BGbaRJcUGrxnzC7Asu1o6uXg62MvTbBQ_6QYOYckKpGoiqHzbVyoAU66wZ0JnfA4CFwlarClPIOfsXJtL241YGwdSq8QP4JVmlXseXQKcnUBebmDlnQU5GLULW42r9WlDMqAZ0679kpgvlvS8sYEFqoXRgHj9hdJuBHcvLagnY8TexhtJKTcbVSsNQEx1uaBeUiT0hMs0kb-cMldIr69Q0lNyu0XQduelZjK7KRd7eNivL0, accessed January 27, 2022

 

Headquarters, Department of the Army, Survival, FM 3-05.70 (FM 21-76), [Washington, D.C., May 2002], page G-3, https://irp.fas.org/doddir/army/fm3-05-70.pdf, accessed January 24, 2022

 

Marco Products, The Camper’s Knot Tying Card Game, [USA, 1986]