Sunday, December 27, 2020

Tracking at Work ... Wait, What!?©

  

An opossum hind foot track?  As a comparison my knife is 5 inches, 12.7 centimeters, long.  Photograph by the Author.

Perhaps an opossum front foot track?  Photograph by the Author.


Animal tracking isn’t just a wilderness activity anymore, what with so many animals, many of whom that would have been scarce or almost extinct thirty years ago, moving into urban and semi-urban areas.  Sometimes you can use your tracking skills at work.  In fact, the other day I was doing a preliminary inventory on some heavy equipment in a warehouse in Buffalo, NY; that is where I found some tracks that I thought were opossum, didelphis virginiana, tracks1.  But because the concrete dust on the splash guards of the equipment, was so thin and fine, the tracks didn’t quite look like the opossum tracks that I was used to seeing in the mud or snow, so I hit the books and here is what I found...

 

Opossum tracks in the mud, with the front footprint on the center left and the hind footprint on the center right of the photo (and with vole tracks near the bottom).  Photograph taken by Michael Lensi, 2003, HERE.

From page 10 of Roger Tory Peterson, Animal Tracks: Fiftieth Anniversary Edition.


So, when you find what you think are opossum tracks, an easy way to identify them is to look for the opposable “thumb” that is found on the hind foot.  Opossums have an opposable thumb on the back of their rear feet, which allows them to grasp and hold branches like a human hand.  The tracks of their hind feet show four toes with claws on the front of the foot and one toe without a claw, pointing to the inside, at the rear of the foot.  The tracks of their front feet show five toes with claws at the front of the foot.  You can also look for a drag line, which the opossum’s tail leaves in the dirt, dust or snow between the tracks, either as short, alternate side drag marks or as a long, sinuous drag mark.  An opossum’s stride is from 5-½ to 11 inches, or 14 to 28 centimeters.

 

A North American Opossum with winter coat, photographed by Cody Pope, HERE.


So, the tracks that I found in the dust on the splash guard were indeed opossum, didelphis virginiana, tracks, since I could see the four front toes and the “thumb” of the rear foot and the five toes of the front foot. 

 

Closeups of the footprints, photograph by the Author.


And now we know who comes out to play at night, in the warehouse, around the heavy equipment.

 

I hope that you continue to enjoy The Woodsman’s Journal Online and look for me on YouTube at Bandanaman Productions for other related videos, HERE.  Don’t forget to follow me on both The Woodsman’s Journal Online, HERE, and subscribe to BandanaMan Productions on YouTube.  If you have questions, as always, feel free to leave a comment on either site.  I announce new articles on Facebook at Eric Reynolds, on Instagram at bandanamanaproductions, and on VK at Eric Reynolds, so watch for me.

 

That is all for now, and as always, until next time, Happy Trails!

 

 

Notes

 

1 The Virginia opossum, didelphis virginiana, which is also known as the North American opossum; in the United States it is often simply called a possum.

 

Sources

 

Opossum Society of the United States; “Opossum Footprints”, [© 2002 -2014 Opossum Society of the United States], https://opossumsocietyus.org/general-opossum-information/opossum-prints/, accessed December 17, 2020

 

Roger Tory Peterson, Animal Tracks: Fiftieth Anniversary Edition, (The Easton Press: Norwalk Connecticut, [1985]) page 10-11

 

Wikimedia, “Opossum_and_vole_tracks_in_mud”, Michael Lensi, Uploaded to Wikimedia, September 16, 2004,

https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Opossum_and_vole_tracks_in_mud.JPG, accessed December 17, 2020

 

Wikimedia, “936px-Opossum_2, North American Opossum with winter coat”, by Cody Pope, February 21, 2007, https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Opossum_2.jpg, accessed December 17, 2020

 

Sunday, December 20, 2020

It’s Wool Season...©

 

Wool blankets and clothes, photograph by the Author.


 
This article can be used by experimental archaeologists, re-enactors or historical trekkers of the late 18th and early 19th centuries, or by anyone who is interested in wilderness survival or camping – Author’s note.

 

Let’s face it, if you are a re-enactor, an experimental archaeologist, or a historical trekker of the late 18th and early 19th centuries, you are going to be wearing a lot of wool this winter.  If you are a modern-day adventurer, you are probably going to be wearing wool or a wool blend, because wool is so good at keeping you warm even if it gets wet, during these cold winter months. 

 

So, it’s wool season...but how are you going to wash all that wool?  You could take it to a drycleaner, but that would get expensive and you sure can’t just throw it into a washing machine!  Or can you?!

 

A whisk broom, used for brushing the dirt off wool blankets and clothes.  Photograph by the Author.


However, before you wash that wool, brush it with a whisk broom to remove as much dirt from your woolens as you can.
  Brushing it with a whisk broom will also help to raise the nap or fuzziness of the wool cloth.  The nap helps to trap heat inside the wool blanket or garment.

 

The washing instructions found on a British military, 100% wool blanket, photograph by the Author.


I bought a
British military, 100% wool blanket, a couple of years ago.  It came with hand wash AND machine wash instructions! 

 

Which one should you choose, you might ask?  That’s a good question, so let’s talk about it.

 


From the British Ministry of Information, Make Do and Mend, originally published in 1943 and republished in 2007, page 18.

 

Traditionally, and perhaps conservatively, most sources recommend hand washing, and the blanket I bought did have hand washing instructions.  Also, I found two other sources on how to hand wash woolens, one from the British Ministry of Information and the other by C. J. Wilde from Wilde Weavery1.  Both, of these two sources have more detail on how to successfully hand wash your wool blankets or clothes, than the tag on my wool blanket has.  From these sources, here is how you go about handwashing those woolens.

 

Fill a tub or bathtub with warm water and dissolving the soap in the water, before putting the wool items to be washed, into the water. 

 

Never let running water fall onto the wool, as it can cause spot felting.  Wool felting occurs when warm soapy water compresses the nap and other wool fibers and hooks them together.  Felting can also occur if you rub or twist the wool while washing it, so don’t do it!

 

The British Ministry of Information had some good advice for us, when they suggested that you wash each item separately, starting with the lightest colored one, first.

 

Also, according to the Ministry of Information, you should squeeze the wool to work the soap through it and you should never lift it out of the wash water while washing it, as the weight of the water might stretch the woolens.

 

Rinse the woolens in clean water, by squeezing the wool, until all the soap is worked out of it and the soap is rinsed away.  This might take several changes of water.  When you change the water, be careful to not let the fresh water pour on your woolens, as this might cause felting.  Again, never lift the woolens out of the rinse water while rinsing, as the weight of the water might stretch your woolens. When you have worked out all the soap and have finished rinsing, lift the entire blanket or garment out of the water at the same time as a bundle, squeezing as much water as you can from the woolens as you do.

 

However, you won’t be able to squeeze out all the rinse water, and so C.J. Wilde suggested that the easiest way to remove the remaining water from your blanket or wool clothes, after squeezing it, is to spin it in a washing machine on a final spin.  Remember to never let rinse water to fall onto the woolens while it is spinning as, again, that might cause felting. 

 

The British Ministry of Information suggested rolling the items in clean towels, to absorb the excess water, before laying them out flat to dry.  Although the Ministry of Information doesn’t say it, I would lay the woolens out on different clean towel to finish drying.

 

Interestingly, the Ministry of Information says to, “Never hang woollens clothes, or they may stretch”, because of the water weight.  Apparently however, when you spin the water out of woolens in a washing machine spin cycle, it removes enough water that it is okay to hang them over a padded clothesline or rail, according to C. J. Wilde. 

 

If you are drying a blanket, C. J. Wilde recommends taking the additional step of blocking the blanket to keep it square.

 

It is necessary to block the wool blanket in order to square it back to its original shape.  Spread the wool blanket out and gently shape it, folding it lengthwise on its center seam.  Wrap this wet blanket around a clean wood board starting at one end and neatly rolling it until only the ends of the board stick out each side.  After it has blocked for several hours, unwrap it and drape the blanket over a clothes line padded with old towels or over the rail of a deck to dry.

 

Additionally, C. J. Wilde in her article on caring for wool, noted that you need to let the woolens air dry, even after they feel dry to the touch, as wool retains moistures which cannot be felt with your hand.

 


Photograph by the Author.

 

I have washed my British military, 100% wool blanket several times, using the instructions on it and a washing machine, and I have had good results.  I have also washed some 100% wool coats using these same instructions, and again, I have had good results.

 

When following these instructions for machine washing woolens, I always set my washing machine to “Knits Gentle, Light”, since the instructions call for “warm, minimum wash”, and I fill the washing machine up with warm water, first.  Next, I put the soap in and give it time to dissolve, before I put my woolens in. 

 

Once I put the woolens in, since my washing machine on “Knits Gentle, Light” does not agitate, I plunge them up and down several times to make sure that they are thoroughly soaked in the soapy water and then I turn off the washer and walk away for a while, so that the soap has a chance to work. 

 

When I come back, I turn the washing machine back on and wait while the washing machine to goes through its cycle, because you must stop the washer before it gets to the rinse cycle, so that your wool isn’t felted by the rinse water pouring on it.  On my washing machine, the rinse cycle starts when the dial rotates to the “•”, which is to the left of the “Knits Gentle, Light” label.  It might be different on your washing machine, I recommend a “dry” run, with an empty machine to figure out the washer cycle before you machine wash your woolens the first time.

 

What I do when it gets to the rinse cycle and I have stopped the washer, is take the woolens out and put them into a clean laundry bucket and start the washer cycle over again by turning the dial back around to “Knits Gentle, Light” and filling the washer back up with water, putting the woolens back in, plunging them up and down, soaking them in the soap free water and then letting the washer run until it gets to the rinse cycle again, before stopping the washer and doing it all over again: rinse and repeat, three times.

 

Photograph by the Author.


After that, if I am washing a blanket, I block it and after several hours, I unblock it and drape it over a drying rack to finish drying.
  With clothes, I skip the blocking step and simply drape them over my drying rack to dry.  If you don’t have a drying rack, you can dry your woolens over a towel padded clothes line, a wide wooden rail or by laying them flat on clean towels.

 

So, this winter wool season, when you have to wash your matchcoat and all the rest of that wool, I hope that this helps.

 

I hope that you continue to enjoy The Woodsman’s Journal Online and look for me on YouTube at Bandanaman Productions for other related videos, HERE.  Don’t forget to follow me on both The Woodsman’s Journal Online, HERE, and subscribe to BandanaMan Productions on YouTube.  If you have questions, as always, feel free to leave a comment on either site.  I announce new articles on Facebook at Eric Reynolds, on Instagram at bandanamanaproductions, and on VK at Eric Reynolds, so watch for me.

 

That is all for now, and as always, until next time, Happy Trails!

 

 

Notes

 

1 CARE INSTRUCTIONS FOR HANDWOVEN WOOL BLANKETS AND MATCHCOATS

 

A handwoven wool blanket can always be dry cleaned by a professional cleaner, but it is not difficult to clean it at home using the bath tub.

Draw warm water in the tub mixing a liquid soap in the running water.  Place blanket in the water and let it soak, gently working water through it to loosen any dirt.  Move the blanket to the far end of the tub whenever running more water into the tub.  Repeat washings if needed and rinse with clear, warm water until all the soap is removed.  Be careful not to let the water run on the blanket at any time as this could cause spot felting of the wool.

The easiest way to remove excess water from the clean blanket is to spin it in a washing machine on the final spin.  Distribute wet blanket evenly around the sides of the machine and spin--DO NOT USE ANY WATER.  When spinning stops, remove blanket for blocking.

It is necessary to block the wool blanket to square it back to its original shape.  Spread the wool blanket out and gently shape it, folding it lengthwise on its center seam.  Wrap this wet blanket around a clean wood board starting at one end and neatly rolling it until only the ends of the board stick out each side.  After it has blocked for several hours, unwrap it and drape the blanket over a clothes line padded with old towels or over the rail of a deck to dry.

Allow the blanket to continue to air dry after it feels dry, as wool retains moisture that can't be detected by feel.

 

From “Care Instructions For Handwoven Wool Blankets And Matchcoats”, by C.J. Wilde, unfortunately this website no longer exists and so I have reprinted it here in its entirety.

 

Sources

 

Ministry of Information, Make Do and Mend, [Originally printed for the Board of Trade, His Majesty’s Stationary Office, London, 1943; Republished by Sabrestorm Publishing, Sevenoaks, Kent, 2007], page 18

 

Wilde, C.J.; “Care Instructions For Handwoven Wool Blankets And Matchcoats”, http://www.wildeweavery.com/blanket_care_instructions.htm, accessed April 1, 2008

 

Sunday, December 13, 2020

...Seeking Shelter Against the Wind©

 

An excerpt from Handbook For Boys, by the Boy Scouts of America, June 1953, page 157.


 
This article can be used by experimental archaeologists, re-enactors or historical trekkers of the late 18th and early 19th centuries, or by anyone who is interested in wilderness survival or camping.  Updated November 2, 2021 – Author’s note.

 

The lyric, “seeking shelter against the wind”, is from Bob Seger’s song “Against The Wind”1, and while Mr. Seger was talking metaphorically about life and it’s struggles and challenges, it is also an excellent piece of survival advice, as well.  So how do you go about seeking shelter against the wind?  With a windbreak of course!  But is there a science to windbreaks?  Why yes, there is!

 

Much of what has been written about the science of windbreaks has come from the viewpoint of agricultural scientists, writing about providing shelter for wildlife and livestock, but hey if it works for moose and cows, it will work for you too!

 

The purpose of a windbreak is, obviously, to break the wind, this reduces the effects of wind chill and at the same time protects you from wind-blown rain, sleet, and snow.  You can either find windbreaks, like large rocks, fallen trees, or thickets and groves of trees, or you can build them yourself from the materials at hand in the wilderness.  There are two types of windbreaks, solid ones like rocks, walls and logs, and permeable ones like groves of trees and thickets, which are also called shelterbelts.

 


As the wind blows against a solid, straight windbreak, it is either forced around or over it.  When air is forced over a windbreak the air pressure increases on the upwind or windward side and its velocity increases.  On the downwind or leeward side, a slight vacuum is created as the wind crests the top of the obstacle.  This vacuum causes turbulence, which acts to dissipate the wind’s energy and velocity.  The area of wind protection downwind from a solid windbreak is about fifteen times the height of the windbreak.

 

Solid windbreaks, Figure 1, from “Wind And Snow Control Around The Farm”, by Don D. Jones, William H. Friday, and Sherwood S. DeForest.

From “Engineering Practice Planning Guide: Livestock Shelter Structure”, page 6.


During the winter, the wind will drop its snow load in two places.
  On the upwind side of a solid windbreak, snow will drift at a 45o degree angle in front of it.  On the downwind side, the wind no longer has enough energy and velocity to carry the snow, which then drops out and creates a snow drift.  With a solid windbreak, like a fallen log or a large rock, the distance of this drifting is about five times the height of the windbreak and a solid windbreak will also protect you from the wind for about twenty times the height of the windbreak.  The authors of the “Engineering Practice Planning Guide: Livestock Shelter Structure”, note that there should be a mostly snow drift free area, in the lee of the windbreak, out to two times the windbreaks height, with the snow drifting occurring after that out to five times the height of the windbreak2.



Figure 5.1, from “Functioning of a windbreak”, by the Food and Agriculture Organization of the United Nations. 

 

A grove or stand of trees acts as a permeable windbreak and as the wind blows through a grove of trees, with a vegetation density of 50 to 60%3, the wind is both forced over and through the trees.  Just as with a solid windbreak, when the wind is forced over a grove of trees, the air pressure increases on the upwind or windward side and its velocity increases.  On the downwind or leeward side, a slight vacuum is created as the wind crests the grove and this vacuum causes turbulence, which acts to slow the wind.  The area of wind protection, downwind from a grove of trees, is between fifteen to twenty times the height of the trees.  The wind reduction provided by a 32-foot, 10 meter, tall grove of trees can be as much as 70% within the first 100 feet, or approximately 30 meters, dropping to 50% out to 200 feet, or approximately 60 meters, from the lee edge of the grove of trees.

 

Figure 5, from “Wind And Snow Control Around The Farm”, by Don D. Jones, William H. Friday, and Sherwood S. DeForest.


During the winter, the wind as it blows over a thicket or a grove of trees will drop its snow load in two places.
  On the upwind side of the trees, the snow will drift into the trees and create drifts on the windward side of the stand of trees.  On the downwind, or lee side, the wind is slowed and no longer has the energy and velocity to carry snow and the snow then settles out to create a snow drift.  In the lee of a grove of trees, the distance of this drifting is about five to ten times the height of the grove and this type of windbreak will also protect you from the wind for about fifteen to twenty times the height of the grove. 

 

 

From “Shelterbelt agriculture uses trees to protect soil and water resources”, by Henry Kock.


During the spring, summer or fall, the best type of windbreak is a thicket or grove of trees, and the best spot for protection from the wind, would be somewhere within five to ten times the trees height, away from the edge of the grove.
  You will also find that during the summer that within this area it will be the cooler than anywhere else.  According to the “Wind And Snow Control Around The Farm”, by Don D. Jones, William H. Friday, and Sherwood S. DeForest, “a dense tree area has a substantial cooling effect. On a hot summer day, there is up to a 10-degree difference in temperature between an open field and a grove of trees. This is more than shade effect. The leaves of one mature tree can evaporate over 200 gallons of water per day, producing evaporative cooling equivalent to an 8-10 room air conditioner!

 

During the winter, the best spot to be would be about ten times the trees height away from the edge of the grove.  This spot will give you the best protection from the wind and it will also put you beyond the snow drift zone4. 

 


However, in open country, you won’t be able to find a handy thicket or a conveniently placed stand of spruce trees, and you will have to build a windbreak to protect your lean-to or your tent.  When you build a windbreak, its final shape will depend on the materials that you have available build it with.  If you are in a forested area and are using logs, your walls will, of course, be straight, and your windbreak will be “V” shaped.  If you are using snow blocks, are digging through the snow to the ground and piling the dug-up snow to the windward side, or are using piled up rocks, the best shape will be semicircular.  In the Arctic, or during the winter, Alan Innes-Taylor, who wrote the Arctic Survival Guide, suggested the following about windbreaks.

 

An excerpt from Arctic Survival Guide, by Alan Innes-Taylor, page 59.


Also, the
SAC Land Survival Guide Book, most likely authored by Alan Innes-Taylor, had this to say about windbreaks, “In open country you can build a low snow-block wall not more than four feet away from the tent and semicircular in shape.  Strengthen the windward side by throwing water on it and letting it freeze.

 

From R. L. Jairell, and R. A. Schmidt, “Snow management and Windbreaks”, page 2. 

 

From “Engineering Practice Planning Guide: Livestock Shelter Structure”, page 4.  Note that in Figure 1a, the width of the shelter is labeled “D” and the Drift-Free area is ¾ of the width at 1-½ times the width from the corner of the shelter.


The authors of the “Engineering Practice Planning Guide: Livestock Shelter Structure”, much like the authors of the
SAC Land Survival Guide Book, thought that the semicircular windbreak was the best shape, as the semicircle protects 27% more area, for the same shelter length, than does the “V”-shape windbreak.  They also wrote that, during the winter, whether you are building a “V”-shape or a semicircle windbreak, if you wished to avoid snow drifts, you should make sure that the shelter width (which is marked as “D” in both illustrations) should be no more than fifteen times the total height your walls.  This way the snow drift free area behind your windbreak, will be no less than ¾ of the shelter’s width. 

 

If the walls of your windbreak are 3 feet, or almost 1 meter high, then the width of the mouth of the semicircle or “V”, should not be more than fifteen times the height, which is equal to 45 feet or almost 14 meters.  During periods of drifting snow, this will give you a drift free area in the lee of the windbreak that is 33 feet, or 10 meters wide

 

So, the next time you are seeking shelter from the wind, build or find a windbreak and set up camp in its lee.

 

I hope that you continue to enjoy The Woodsman’s Journal Online and look for me on YouTube at Bandanaman Productions for other related videos, HERE.  Don’t forget to follow me on both The Woodsman’s Journal Online, HERE, and subscribe to BandanaMan Productions on YouTube.  If you have questions, as always, feel free to leave a comment on either site.  I announce new articles on Facebook at Eric Reynolds, on Instagram at bandanamanaproductions, and on VK at Eric Reynolds, so watch for me.

 

That is all for now, and as always, until next time, Happy Trails!

 

 

Notes

 

1 The song “Against The Wind”, by Bob Seger is from the 1980 album, Against The Wind.

 

2 So, for example, if you build a wall or find a fallen log or big boulder that is three feet, or almost 1 meter, high, the wind will create a drift zone in the lee of the windbreak, that can equal 15 feet, or almost 5 meters, which is the height of the windbreak times five.  It should be remembered that the area behind the windbreak out to 6 feet, or almost 2 meters, should be mostly drift free.  The windbreak will also block or reduce the wind for about fifteen times the height of the windbreak, which at 3 feet, or almost 1 meter, will be 45 feet or just over 14 meters.

 

3 From “Functioning of a windbreak”, Food and Agriculture Organization of the United Nations,

 

4 So, for example if you are downwind of an approximately 30-foot, or almost 10 meter, tall grove of spruce trees; the wind and snow will create a drift zone that can extend as far as 150 feet to 300 feet, 46 to 91 meters, which is the height of the grove of trees, times a factor of five to ten.  The trees will also block and slow the wind for between fifteen to twenty times the height of the grove, which at 30 feet, or almost 10 meters, will extend 450 to 600 feet, 137 to 183 meters, from the edge of the grove.

 

 

Sources

 

3904th Composite Wing Strategic Air Command, SAC Land Survival Guide Book, [SAC OFFUT AFB, July 8, 1952], page 66

 

Boy Scouts of America, Handbook For Boys, [Boy Scouts of America, New York, New York, June 1953], page 157

 

Brandle, James R., and Finch, Sherman; “How Windbreaks Work”, University of Nebraska Extension, EC 91-1763-B, https://www.fs.usda.gov/nac/assets/documents/morepublications/ec1763.pdf, accessed December 10, 2020

 

Food and Agriculture Organization of the United Nations, “Figure 5.1 Functioning of a windbreak”, http://www.fao.org/3/t0122e/t0122e0a.htm, accessed December 10, 2020

 

Innes-Taylor, Alan; Arctic Survival Guide, [Scandinavian Airlines System, Stockholm, 1957], page 54-55 and 63

 

Jairell, R. L.; and Schmidt, R. A.; “Snow management and Windbreaks”, [University of Nebraska, Lincoln, December, 1999], page 2, https://digitalcommons.unl.edu/cgi/viewcontent.cgi?article=1132&context=rangebeefcowsymp, accessed December 10, 2020

 

Jones, Don D.; Friday, William H.; and DeForest, Sherwood S., P.E.; “Wind And Snow Control Around The Farm”, NCR-191, [Purdue University, Cooperative Extension Service, West Lafayette, IN; 1983], https://www.extension.purdue.edu/extmedia/ncr/ncr-191.html, accessed December 10, 2020

 

Kock, Henry; “Shelterbelt agriculture uses trees to protect soil and water resources”, Ecological Agriculture Projects, [McGill University (Macdonald Campus), Ste-Anne-de-Bellevue, QC, Canada, 1990], https://eap.mcgill.ca/MagRack/SF/Summer%2090%20M.htm, accessed December 10, 2020

 

North Dakota, “Engineering Practice Planning Guide: Livestock Shelter Structure”, May 2016, pages 3-7, https://www.nrcs.usda.gov/wps/PA_NRCSConsumption/download?cid=nrcseprd1088613&ext=pdf, accessed December 11, 2020

 

“Trees can provide living windbreaks”, The Houghton Lake Resorter, Houghton Lake, Michigan; January 15, 2015, [© 2018-2020 The Houghton Lake Resorter], https://www.houghtonlakeresorter.com/articles/trees-can-provide-living-windbreaks/, accessed December 10, 2020