Sparks from a lighter with ferrocerium rod, from Wikimedia, HERE.
Last week, I wrote an article about how to
paint a lubber line on The Ultimate Survival Tool”,
manufactured by FreedomGorilla, HERE,
which is a type of “5-in-1 Survival Whistle” that has a ferro rod, a “flint of pyrophoric metal”, from which sparks could
be struck by the back of a pocketknife; and from that little spark may burst a flame,
if you were out of matches.
A
“flint of pyrophoric metal” is made of ferrocerium, (known in Europe as
Auermetall), a pyrophoric alloy of mischmetal1, a man-made
combination of rare-earth elements, iron, and magnesium and is also called a ferro
rod, a spark rod, or a flint-spark-lighter. Because of ferrocerium's easy ability to
ignite in adverse conditions, it is used as an ignition source for lighters and
as an emergency fire lighting device in survival kits. The ferrocerium rod is often called a “flint”,
despite it being completely unlike natural flint, since both are used to create
sparks to light a fire.
Ferrocerium
is soft, and when struck with anything sharp and hard, such as a piece of
steel, a bit of flint and even a shard of glass, porcelain, or ceramic, it will
produce hot sparks that can reach temperatures of 6,000 °F (3,315 °C) Striking knocks fragments off, igniting them
by frictional heating, due to cerium's remarkably low ignition temperature of
302 to 356 °F (150 to180 °C).
You can also strike sparks from a piece of steel, but when it comes to striking sparks with steel, it isn't the steel, but the carbon in it that
matters. As the carbon content increases, and the steel becomes harder, more and hotter sparks are produced. No matter how hard the steel is, however, it will still be softer than the flint, or other silicate stone, being used to strike it and it will spall off fragments. The striking action ignites the fragments causing the spall to oxidize as it flies through the air. Any carbon steel suitable for crafting a durable blade should work to produce sparks, with either a ferro rod or piece of flint. If the steel is struck a piece of flint, its sparks will ignite at a temperature of 932o F (500o C) and burn at a temperature of 2,498o F (1,370o C).
Stainless
steel however, while it does produce sparks, yields fewer sparks, and is not a very
good striker.
Many
survival manuals, such as the Survival Training Guide, 1955, and Survival:
Search and Rescue, 1969, show people using the sharp edge of their
pocketknife blade, to scrape sparks from a ferro rod. This makes me crazy, the instructor in me
worries “that people who are new to the wilderness will think that is the
right way to do it!.”, while the historian in me notes “when tinderboxes
were still a thing, that is not how they did it at all!”, and the
survivalist and knife aficionado in me says, “gahh!..you’re
going to ruin the edge of your knife!”.
The right
way to do it...
When
tinderboxes were still a thing...
You’re
going to ruin the edge...
While
you can use the sharp edge of your blade, scraping the edge of your blade
against a ferro rod knocks bits of steel off, as tiny glowing, white-hot
sparks, and this will quickly ruin the edge of your blade and it is completely
unsafe to use a piece of flint against the sharp edge of your knife.
Some tips
for using a ferro rod
1. Don’t spare the rod...scrape hard. Scrape hard, gentle scraping won’t provide
enough friction to ignite the flakes.
2. Scrape off the paint. Ferro rods are often painted with black paint
to prevent corrosion and to keep them from bumping against each other during shipping.
So, you have to scrape off the paint,
before you can strike sparks from the rod.
Scrape hard, the force you would normally use to strike sparks off the
rod will also remove the paint and expose the ferrocerium.
3. Move the rod, not the striker. Unlike when you use flint and steel (where
you strike with the steel not the flint), with a ferro rod you must hold the
striker in one hand, and pull the rod away with the other, like you’re pulling on
the cord of a lawn mower. This will help
you aim the sparks and keep you from knocking your tinder all over the place.
4. Pick the right tinder To catch the sparks, you will need the right
tinder. Use natural, light fluffy, fuzzy
stuff like char-cloth, punk, cotton balls, cotton dryer lint, milkweed or
cattail seed down, goldenrod fluff, rubbed and crushed, dried grass or the
inner bark of cottonwood trees. Other
types of tinder, like dry, dead leaves, wood shavings or small pine branches,
which would normally light with the open flame, are too coarse, and won’t light
until you get the fluffy stuff flaming.
Don’t forget to come back next week and read “Not
All Steel Is Created Equal”, where we will talk about what
is the best steel for a survival knife, 1075 or 1095 high carbon steel, or stainless steel? And what is the best survival knife anyways?
I
hope that you continue to enjoy The Woodsman’s Journal Online and look for me
on YouTube at BandanaMan Productions for other related videos, HERE. Don’t forget to follow me on both The
Woodsman’s Journal Online, HERE,
and subscribe to BandanaMan Productions on YouTube. If you have questions, as always, feel free
to leave a comment on either site. I
announce new articles on Facebook at Eric Reynolds, on Instagram at bandanamanaproductions,
and on VK at Eric Reynolds, so watch for me.
That
is all for now, and as always, until next time, Happy Trails!
Notes
1 Mischmetal
means “mixed metal” and is a combination of cerium, lanthanum,
neodymium, other trace lanthanides are-earth element and some iron) and is
approximately 95% lanthanides and is hardened by blending in 5% oxides of iron
and magnesium.
2 From
“Pen Pictures of Early Pioneer Life in Upper Canada, by A. “Canuck”, 1905
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